Gallery

My Gallery of Knife Projects: Since I started in August 2013.

The latest...

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This garasuki is a larger version of the KN20 honesuki. The blade is closer to 7" long and made from AEB-L 0.130" stock. The handle is Acrylester Renaissance #102 with a brass bolster and butt. The tang bolt threads into the butt and the hole is plugged with a 3/16" mosaic pin.













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This is a left handed (ground on the left side of the blade) KN20 honesuki made from 0.130" AEB-L with a koa handle, brass and stainless bolsters with black fibre spacer. B7H1

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154CM Olive wood kitchen knife
This is a KN34 made from 1/8" 154CM steel with a blade that spans about 6-1/2 inches with a 4-1/2" handle. The handle is made from olive wood and has 304 stainless pins and a mosaic center pin. B6L01






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This is another KN20 Honesuki style with a western handle. It's made from AEB-L 3.3 mm (0.130") and has a blade of 150 mm (5"). The customer specifically wanted a handle that was "less round" and more easier to index. The handle is Arizona desert ironwood along with brass and 416 stainless. Serial number B6K02. Knife number 30.


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Honesuki Arizona Desert Ironwood AEB-L

Knife number 29 is another DH55 and is the sister of the KITH Bird & Trout knife shown below. The handle is Inlace Abalone Acrylester with mosaic pins and a 1/4" lanyard hole. Serial Number B6K01





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This is a DH55A Bird & Trout made for the Canadian Knifemaker's Forum KITH. It's made from AEB-L with maple burl and stainless steel handle. Measuring a tiny 7.25" it's nimble and easy to carry. Serial number  B6F01



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A 7" chef's knife made from AEB-L 0.130" sporting 416 stainless bolster, yellow flame birch handle, with 416 pins and mosaic centre pin. 


 Distal taper as viewed from the top.





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This is the sister or B5L04 a KN16 also in AEB-L with a 150mm blade and a stabilized spalted maple handle featuring stainless steel and gemstone composite. Serial number B6A01, #25.







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My 24th knife is a nimble 128mm honesuki (boning knife) made from 0.130" AEB-L stainless with a sculpted cocobolo and African blackwood handle. Weighing in at 125 grams, you could swing this all day long. Serial number B5L05.



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This was a fun knife. Ebony and padauk make the black and red handle. The pattern is a KN16 and was made from 3/32" AEB-L stainless. Serial number B5L04









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My 22nd knife is a sujihiki made from AEB-L 3/32" stainless steel and sports a composite through tang handle of stainless steel, Russian lavender and blue dyed stabilized curly maple. It's a slicer B5L03

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A shorty chef's knife with amethyst acrylester scales and 1/8" CPM154 steel. Oil quenched and drawn back to about RHC60. The pins are 3/16" brass and 3/16" mosaic for the centre.


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This is a nimble Chef's knife. It's made from Swedish AEB-L stainless steel and features a handle made from African Blackwood, stabilized Amboyna burl and red vulcanized fibre spacers. The stainless steel butt is threaded and screws on to the tang which runs all way though the handle.

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A DH44 hunter in CPM 154 with maple burl scales and black Micarta and mosaic pin.B5L01





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My 19th knife. B5J01 made from AEB-L 3/32" stainless and sports 304 stainless bolster and stained lacewood handle. Its thin and sharp blade is well suited as protein slicer.











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This is a 150 mm Nakiri made from 1/8" x 2" 1084 high carbon stock and features a beautiful bookmatched maple burl handle with black micarta and mosaic pins. A forced patina gives the blade a mottled look and offers some protection against corrosion. Serial number B5G02.












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This is a 160 mm Petty Wa made from AEB-L 0.130" and ground for right-hand use. The handle is made from copper, ebony, white turquiose composite gemstone and stabilized maple burl. My 17th knife, serial number: B5G01.










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This is a KN12 Gyuto that was reduced to 1.5" in the belly. Made from 154CM and hardened to 60 Rockwell. It's my first wa handle made of ebony, brass and maple burl. The edge is ground at 15° for effortless slicing capability. Serial number B5F01. 











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 My 15th knife, serial number B5D01.

This is my first through tang knife. It's based on the HT1 pattern and is made from 1/8" CPM154 stainless steel.
 With 416 stainless steel bolsters and sugilite gemstone composite, black vulcanized spacers make the Redwood burl look at home.
 













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This is a BC8 bushcraft knife made from 5/32" CPM154 as part of the Canadian Knifemaker's Spring 2015 KITH. It measures in at just under 8" in total and features maple scales and mosaic pins. Serial number B5C01. My 14th knife.















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This is the little brother of B5B01, made from the same piece of steel, yet scaled with blue dyed stabilized flame maple and adorned with 416 stainless pins and a single 3/16" mosaic pin. February 2015



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 This is a new DH1 made from 1/8" 154CM. About 8" long and sporting a composite Yellow Birch and African Blackwood handle. Serial number B5B01 from February 2015.





















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This is a DH44 hunter from 5/32" CPM154 with stabilized brown curly maple scales and stainless bolster. The pins are both 1/8" and 3/16" mosaic by Frank Jacobs. Serial number B4L01 from December 2014.











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This is a 7-1/2" blade Chef's knife made from 3-32" 154CM sporting 416 stainless front bolster, stabilized golden Amboyna burl and G10 rear bolster. Serial number B4K02 from December 2014. 















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This is a KN11, AEB-L Chef's knife with 304 stainless bolsters and African blackwood scales. Measuring in with a 7 -1/4" blade it makes a sturdy, yet agile kitchen mate. Serial number B4K01 from November 2014.


 






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KN7 #2 is an AEB-L 0.130" Chef's knife with an 8" blade and composite handle of black G10 and stabilized Aboyna burl. Brass 1/8" and 3/16 pins and Acraglas hold things together. Serial number: B4G01















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This is another chef's knife with a keyhole bolster made from 0.130" AEB-L with 304 stainless bolster, stabilized Amboyna burl, stainless and mosaic pin. Serial number B4G02












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My sixth knife was intended for the Knife Network Kitchen Knife KITH, but time got the best of me. It's 12" overall, made from Uddeholm AEB-L razor blade stainless.



The handle is blue/red dyed stabilized bird's eye maple, along with 416 stainless bolsters and held together with brass pins and Acraglas.  May 2014 - Serial number: B4E02












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DH21 - My seventh knife made from 5/32" 154CM stainless with my own camo Micarta scales, 3/16" brass pins and 1/4" brass lanyard tube. May 2014 - Serial number: B4E01


DH21 in sheath.
















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DH11 - My fifth knife. 5/32" CPM154 with stabilized spalted maple scales, mosaic pins. April 2014 - Serial number: B4D01














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 DH1-2 My fourth knife. 1/8" CPM154 with Maple handle and mosaic pins + sheath. December 2013. Serial number: B3L01








 
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DH1 - My third knife. 1/8" S35VN with Maple burl handle, mosaic pins. October 2013
 DH1 with sheath.










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AD1 - My second knife 5/32" CPM154, Dymondwood scales, 1/8" brass pins.
September 2013.












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BC1 - My first knife and the thing that started it all. A robust bushcraft knife. 3/16" 154CM, teak scales, 1/4" brass pins and lanyard tube.
August 2013













More to come!

D

19 comments:

  1. Beautiful knives! I aspire to start making knives, hopefully soon. Thank you for all the great info and inspiration.

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    1. Thank you for your kind words. I wish you well on your knifemaking journey. It truly is a fascinating craft.

      All the best!

      Dan

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  2. Really beautiful knives... I´m trying to finish my first, but the time isn´t much... really nice job making the pdf templates, and thank you so much for posting them... regards from Portugal

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    1. Thank you Sergio,

      Please send a photo when you finish your knife!

      Regards from Canada.

      Dan

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    2. How does one send a photo in?

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    3. Hi Sergio,

      Email me at knives @ dcknives dot com.

      Delete
  3. this is by far one the best sites for knife making, thank you Dan for all this important information about knife making, I only do knife handles for now, but you are giving me inspiration and courage to start doing the all thing. Thanks once again.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you for your kind comments. I am happy that someone finds this stuff useful!

      Dan

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  4. Hi there! I was wondering if the sixth knife, B4E02, is in any of the pdf templates? Thanks for a great site.

    Kalle

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  5. Hi Kalle,

    The knife in question is a slightly modified KN6 from the pattern here:
    http://dcknives.com/public/downloads/KN6%20Template%20-%20DanCom-2014.pdf

    Thanks for stopping by,

    Dan

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  6. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  7. Hay Dan, love your site and love your 150mm Nakari
    What is the process behind the "forced patina"? look great

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    1. Hi,
      The nakiri is made of carbon steel which is easily discoloured with acids. Mustard has some vinegar which has acetic acid. Exposing the steel for a half hour or so makes it go dark. Random splotches and varying time leads to a mottled appearance.

      The patina helps protect the blade from further oxidization.

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    2. So you just mess it up with mustard... very tasty, thank you so much

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  8. Thanks for the instructions on cutting the vine. I'm completing a knife for my mother and wanted something special to accent her knife when she was gardening. Great site with a humble approach.

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  9. halo dan

    nice blog

    very interesting about belt grinder and knives gallery.

    regards from indonesia.

    dani zarnika

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  10. hey.
    these are some really nice knives, im just a kid "14" and would like to start making knives and don't really know where to start. (im also good with my hands i was the best in my class at wood and metal) so if anyone has anything to help me then please reply

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    1. Hi Caleb,

      I'd get myself some simple carbon steel, say 1084, and lay out a design. Cut it with a hacksaw and file it to a nice shape. Drill some holes for pins and start to shape the bevels with a file. A really basic filing jig can be made of wood and a few pieces of hardware. Ask around about heat treating. Maybe your metalwork teacher can help you. Once you get the steel hardened and tempered, get at with sandpaper. When it's sleek and shiny, tape up the blade part and glue and pin some scales on it with epoxy and brass or stainless steel pins. When the epoxy is set, shape the handle with coarse sand paper until it's close to the shape you want. Then increase in sandpaper grits, say from 60 to 100 to 220 to 320. The handle will feel very smooth around 400 grit. Now put an edge on it with a stone or sandpaper. You should at this point have a very functional knife. Take a photo and send it to me.

      Cheers,

      Dan

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  11. Hi Dan,

    I just wanted to say what a great site you have and that you do FANTASTIC work !!! Im very interested in getting into knifemaking and am from the Leduc area as well. I hope to see some of your work in person some day soon. Thanks.

    ReplyDelete